Gentileza de:
INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING FEDERATION
UNION INTERNATIONALE DES ASSOCIATIONS D’ALPINISME
Stretch your Limits, Lift your Spirits and Aim for the Top
As amended and approved in
Article 1 – Individual Responsibility
Maxim:
Mountaineers and climbers practice their sport in situations where there is a risk of accidents and where outside help may not be available. With this in mind, they engage in this activity at their own risk and are responsible for their own safety. The actions of individuals should not endanger those around them nor damage the environment. For example, the fixing of anchors on new or existing routes cannot automatically be taken as acceptable.
Article 2 – Team Spirit
Maxim:
Members of a team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the needs and abilities of all the group. The climb will invariably be most successful where the members support and encourage one another.
Article 3 – Climbing & Mountaineering Community
Maxim:
Every person we meet in the mountains or on a rock face deserves an equal measure of respect. Even in remote places and stressful situations, we should always treat others as we want to be treated ourselves.
Article 4 – Visiting Foreign Countries
Maxim:
When we are guests in foreign countries, we should always conduct ourselves politely and with restraint. We should show consideration to the local people and their culture – they are our hosts. We should respect local climbing ethics and style and never drill holes or place bolts where there is a traditional ethic against it or where no locally established ethics exists. We will respect holy mountains and other sacred places and always look for ways to benefit and assist local economies and people. An understanding of foreign cultures is part of a complete climbing experience.
Article 5 – Responsibilities of Mountain Guides and other Leaders
Maxim:
Professional mountain guides, other leaders and members of the groups they lead should each understand their respective roles and respect the freedoms and rights of other groups and individuals. In this declaration we recognise the high standards of practice achieved by the mountain guides’ own professional body.
Article 6 – Emergencies, Dying and Death
Maxim:
We must be prepared for emergencies and situations which result in serious accidents and death. All participants in mountain sports should clearly understand the risks and hazards and the need to have appropriate skills, knowledge and equipment. They need to be ready to help others in the event of an emergency or accident and also be ready to face the consequences of a tragedy. It is hoped that commercial operators in particular will warn their clients that their objectives may have to be sacrificed to assist others in distress.
Article 7 – Access and Conservation
Maxim:
We believe that freedom of access to mountains and cliffs in a responsible manner is a fundamental right. We should always practice our activities in an environmentally sensitive way and be proactive in preserving nature and the landscape. We should always respect access restrictions and regulations agreed by climbers with nature conservation organizations and authorities.
Article 8 – Style
Maxim:
The quality of the experience and how we solve a problem is more important than whether we succeed. We should always strive to leave no trace on the rock face or the mountainside.
Article 9 – First Ascents
Maxim:
The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act. It should be completed in a manner at least as good as the style and traditions of the region. The way the climb was achieved should be reported exactly.
Article 10 – Sponsorship, Advertising and Public Relations
Maxim:
The cooperation between sponsors and mountaineers or climbers must be a professional relationship that serves the best interests of mountain sports. It is the responsibility of the mountain sports' community to educate and inform both media and public in a proactive manner.
Article 11 – Use of supplementary oxygen in Mountaineering
Maxim:
The use of supplementary oxygen in high altitude mountaineering has been under debate for several years. In this debate, different components related to the topic can be distinguished, such as medical aspects and ethical considerations. The medical aspects should be of paramount concern to all mountaineers. Ethical considerations are best left to the individual climber, provided that, if a climber does use oxygen, plans are made to remove used bottles from the mountain.
Article 12 – High altitude guided commercial expeditions
Maxim:
It is hoped that commercial operators, especially those without qualifications, attempting 8000m or other comparable peaks which offer limited rescue facilities will recognize the limitations of the clients in their care. All efforts should be made to ensure the safety of such clients and also to warn their clients that plans may have to be curtailed to help others on the mountain in distress.
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Draft 2010 WADA Prohibited List
PROHIBITED METHODS M1. ENHANCEMENT OF OXYGEN TRANSFER
The following are prohibited:
1. Blood doping, including the use of autologous, homologous or
heterologous blood or red blood cell products of any origin.
2. Artificially enhancing the uptake, transport or delivery of oxygen, including
but not limited to perfluorochemicals, efaproxiral (RSR13) and modified
haemoglobin products (e.g. haemoglobin-based blood substitutes,
microencapsulated haemoglobin products).
3. The use of hyperoxic conditions, except for medical emergencies and in
those sports where the use of supplemental oxygen is mandated as a
safety requirement (aeronautic, mountaineering).
Oxygen
• idea that oxygen is “mandated” would be accepted by many UIAA representatives
• ambivalence between the WADA proposed text and the current UIAA position
• WADA text does not reflect the complexity of the UIAA position
• we need a clear statement by the ADcom and MEDcom.
Article 14. Use of supplementary
oxygen in Mountaineering
Introduction: The use of supplementary oxygen in high altitude Mountaineering has been under debate for several years. In this debate, different aspects related to the topic can be distinguished, such as
medical aspects and ethical aspects.
1. Medical aspects. There is scientific evidence that human brain cells are dying in hypoxic conditions. These conditions occur during the ascents of big mountains at higher altitudes. High altitude mountaineers should be (made) aware of these facts and should make their own choice whether they wish to plan their scents with the aide of supplementary oxygen or without it.
Mountain guides, Mountain clubs, Expedition leaders or tour operators should inform their clients or members about the risks of climbing at high altitude to the human body, more specifically the risk of hypoxic conditions to the human brain.
2. Ethical aspects. In mountaineering, we can distinguish many forms of the “climbing game”, we can not compare achievements made with the help of supplementary oxygen to those ascents which were made without it. The highest standard to climb a route is free climbing, and at high altitude to
refrain from using supplementary oxygen. The mountaineers choose the style which fits best, given his abilities and experience and risk assessment. The choice to use or to refrain from using supplementary oxygen lies with the individual mountaineer, this does not to be problems from an ethical point of view. We do not give a qualification to achievements, made in the past. These achievements must be judged against the conditions and circumstances at the time these ascents were made.
